Geishas Para Principiantes: Geiko se hace, no se nace.

Hay comunidades de geishas más o menos grandes activas por todo Japón, pero el proceso para convertirse en una geiko en Kyoto no tiene equivalente en ningún otro lugar. Su formación es estricta y rigurosa, y se alarga durante años, pero lo que verdaderamente diferencia a las geikos, maikos y aprendices de Kyoto es cómo viven su día a día.

La mayoría de las geishas de Tokyo, por ejemplo, tienen un estilo de vida muy parecido al de cualquier otra mujer japonesa trabajadora, con la excepción quizá de sus horarios. Una geisha de Yokohama trabaja por las noches en casas de té, pero puede pasar el resto del tiempo vestida con ropa occidental, vivir en un apartamento con muebles de Ikea, desplazarse en tren como la mayoría de habitantes del área de Tokyo y alrededores y en general vivir una rutina muy similar a cualquier otra empleada de hostelería. En Kyoto, sin embargo, las geikos y muy especialmente las maikos viven completamente inmersas en el karyuukai a diario, desde que se levantan hasta que se acuestan.

Fase 0: La Okiya

Aunque literalmente “okiya” significa algo así como “posada” o “pensión”, en ocasiones se traduce como “casa de geishas”. Se podría decir que funciona como una agencia de talentos que se dedica a buscar aspirantes, proporcionarles todo lo necesario para su formación, y luego hace de intermediaria entre las maikos y geikos y los clientes que quieren contratar sus servicios, pero también es mucho más que eso. La okiya es el centro de la vida de las geikos y maikos, donde están obligadas a vivir desde que se convierten a aprendizas y hasta que se vuelvan geikos independientes (jimae), y es la institución que en la práctica marca la diferencia entre cualquier persona con conocimientos de las artes tradicionales y una geimaiko hecha y derecha.

Las okiyas de Kyoto están instaladas en machiyas, un tipo de construcción tradicional típico de los núcleos urbanos de la edad media japonesa. Literalmente, significa “casa de ciudad” y generalmente se encuentran en hileras de edificios adosados de dos pisos. Hoy en día todas tienen luz eléctrica, agua corriente y un mínimo de comodidades modernas, pero la estructura suele ser muy antigua, de madera, con suelos de tatami, puertas correderas y tabiques de papel.

Desde fuera, algunas parecen casitas diminutas, porque a menudo la fachada es estrecha y consiste solo en un pequeño zaguán. Lo cierto es que este tipo de construcciones pueden ser bastante más grandes de lo que aparentan a simple vista. Una okiya necesita espacio para almacenar cientos de kimonos, instrumentos musicales y accesorios de danza, y habitaciones suficientes para que la okaasan, las geimaiko, las aprendices y a veces también otras empleadas puedan alojarse, además de tener una cocina, un comedor, baños… Dos o tres mujeres viven en las okiyas más pequeñas, y en otras llega a haber más de una docena de inquilinas al mismo tiempo. Como si se tratase de un tren con compartimentos, las habitaciones están dispuestas una detrás de otra a lo largo de un pasillo que suele zigzaguear a través de uno o más patios interiores. En algunas, los baños se encuentran fuera, en un patio, y no son accesibles directamente desde el interior. Como es la norma en la mayoría de casas japonesas, incluso las más modernas, el servicio (con el inodoro y lavamanos) está en una habitación, y el baño (con una bañera lo bastante profunda para sumergirse hasta los hombros) está en otra.

Aunque tengan televisión, y en muchos casos ordenadores y conexión a internet, tanto la arquitectura como el mobiliario están orientados a un estilo de vida lo más tradicional posible. Por ejemplo, las mesas siempre son bajas, de las que se usan sentándose de rodillas, y las camas siempre son futones colocados en el suelo, no colchones con un somier occidental. Esto no es una simple cuestión de estética, sino que está pensado para ser una experiencia inmersiva que moldee la forma de pensar y de actuar de las aspirantes y las geimaiko en activo. Desde un punto de vista psicológico, es muy diferente trabajar en kimono pero luego volver a tu apartamento, ponerte un chándal, relajarte viendo una serie de netflix en tu portátil y dormir en una litera, que vivir en una machiya, ocupándote cada día de tus quehaceres vistiendo wafuku (ropa japonesa tradicional). También tiene un lado puramente práctico. Sentarse en sofá en kimono puede ser bastante engorroso, las almohadas especiales que las maikos se ven obligadas a usar para mantener su peinado no se pueden apoyar sobre un colchón… Hay infinidad de pequeñas formas en las que el entorno influye gradual y sutilmente en los hábitos de las mujeres y jóvenes que viven en la okiya.

La propietaria y directora recibe el nombre de okaasan, que significa madre. Esto refleja el papel que desempeña, que además de ser el de jefa del negocio es también el de cabeza de la “familia” que es la okiya. Ella tiene siempre la última palabra en todas las decisiones, desde las pequeñas y triviales a las más importantes, y la máxima autoridad y responsabilidad sobre todas las geimaikos a su cargo.

Hay dos formas de convertirse en okaasan: heredar el puesto y hacerse cargo de una okiya ya establecida, o bien presentar una solicitud ante la kabukai del barrio para fundar una okiya nueva. Para heredar una okiya es casi imprescindible ser la hija de la anterior propietaria, ya sea biológica o adoptiva, aunque existen casos de herederas que llegan a esa posición al casarse con un descendiente varón de la anterior okaasan, ya que un hombre no puede ocupar ese puesto bajo ninguna circunstancia. Para que la kabukai apruebe la fundación de una nueva okiya, la aspirante a okaasan debe demostrar que posee unas credenciales muy sólidas, normalmente con experiencia como geiko, un compromiso muy firme con el karyuukai y con el barrio, y que dispone de los fondos y los contactos necesarios para que su negocio prospere. Solo el ajuar más básico de kimonos y complementos puede costar más de un millón de euros, y la amistad y el respeto de las personas adecuadas no tiene precio. No es nada fácil cumplir todos estos requisitos, así que pueden pasar muchos años sin que ninguna okiya nueva abra sus puertas.

Cuando una niña quiere convertirse en maiko, lo primero que necesita es encontrar una okiya que esté interesada en reclutarla. Entrar en una okiya se parece más a un matrimonio o una adopción que a un contrato de trabajo normal, y no solo por el aspecto de la convivencia. Se trata de un vínculo profesional, pero también muy personal, que dura toda la vida y une la reputación de todas las mujeres asociadas con la misma okiya mientras duren sus carreras. Y en el karyuukai, la reputación vale mucho.

Antiguamente, la mayoría de geikos eran hijas de otras geikos o de otras personas relacionadas con el mundo de las flores y los sauces (dueños de bares y restaurantes u otros negocios del barrio, músicos y actores de kabuki, artesanos, vendedores de kimonos…) pero hoy en día las aspirantes vienen de todas las prefecturas de Japón y en muchos casos se han criado en entornos sin ninguna relación con el arte o la cultura tradicional. Algunas incluso han crecido en el extranjero, pero todas tienen que ser étnicamente japonesas y tener el japonés como su idioma nativo (no así en el resto del país, donde hay geishas latinas, europeas y de todos los continentes, que son aceptadas sin ningún problema en sus respectivos hanamachis).

En algunos kagai, el proceso se ha ido volviendo más abierto y moderno, y hay okiyas de Kamishichiken, Miyagawachô y Gion Higashi que reclutan a la mayoría de sus nuevas aspirantes a través de internet o incluso anuncios en la prensa. En los barrios de mayor categoría y con más apego a la tradición, a saber, Gion Kôbu y Pontochô, es necesario tener algún conocido común que presente a la okaasan y la aspirante en persona. A menudo, este enlace es un profesor de danza o shamisen, o incluso de kitsuke (el arte de vestir el kimono) que nota que alguna de sus alumnas destaca por su talento o por su interés en el arte y la cultura tradicional japonesa. Tener una amplia red de este tipo de contactos es la mejor forma que puede tener una okaasan de asegurarse una buena selección de candidatas donde elegir. Aparte del talento o la formación previa de las aspirantes, también tiene que tener en cuenta su dedicación y personalidad. No sirve de nada que una chica tenga unas dotes extraordinarias para la danza o sea una virtuosa del shamisen si no está dispuesta a someterse a la estricta disciplina, los durísimos horarios y la renuncia a la privacidad que se necesitan para convertirse en maiko.

En cualquier caso, ya sea a través de facebook o de una presentación formal a la antigua usanza, después de concertar una cita tanto la candidata como sus padres deben viajar a Kyoto para conocer a la okaasan y visitar la okiya. Si todo va bien, el siguiente paso es que la aspirante se convierta oficialmente en shikomi, el periodo de aprendizaje que cubriremos en la siguiente entrada.

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